July 2023  Next Club Events

Dates for Your Diaries

12/13^th August Rheged

This is a new film by Terry Abraham, I’m sure you will remember the three “Life of a Mountain” films he made.

Tickets are still available for screen 2 on Saturday at 7.30pm. Plus Screen 1 on Sunday at 2pm. Each screening includes an introduction and Q & A with Terry Abraham.

There is also a “Cumbrian Red” ale now available to sample on the night.

8^th September Rheged 19:30

PEMBROKE FAR FAR NORTH – Dave Ferguson

I’ve always enjoyed sea cliff climbing, there is something about the committing atmosphere, the smell of the swell breaking on the wave cut platforms and of course the short walk ins. For decrepit old rock jocks this is probably the best way to get bang from your buck. Now Cumbria is not blessed with quality sea cliff climbing despite what some aficionados might think.

The sea cliffs of Galloway are a 2 hour drive from Carlisle so accessible for a day, but not extensive and when you end up doing the same routes on Meikle Ross every visit, it’s time for a change although I do get a satisfying flutter of commitment on the more unprotected routes on the Red Slab.

Tony and I have climbed together for years and have made yearly pilgrimages to Pembroke to maintain our sea cliff fix. It’s probably the most extensive sea cliff climbing area in Britain, full of quality pitches and fine adventures albeit a 6 hour drive from Cumbria. We have made sporadic infiltrations to Scotland for a salty foray here and there but have generally been put off by the vagaries of the weather and have barely struck the surface. So when the royal jubilee 4 day weekend of 2022 promised wall to wall sunshine up north, a trip to Caithness, 6 hours the other way, was in the offing.

Now I’m in my late 50’s now and Tony has passed 3 score years so the idea of camping has become less and less attractive. We decided to book into a bunkhouse at Helmsdale, an old gymnasium, which now hosts several on suite bunk rooms with a fantastic kitchen, just the job for 2 precious old giffers with sore backs and a penchant for comfort. We were greeted by Morag our lovely hostess who let us come and go as we please.

This meant a half hour plus drive to the crags but was well worth it for a comfortable nights sleep.

The horizontal strata accepts cams well which makes the routes fairly safe outings. There are wave cut platforms at many states of the tide so routes are very accessible by abseil. We managed 7 routes from VS to HVS that afternoon having driven up that morning, a good start.

The next day took us to the premier crag of the area. Sarclet has longer routes at 40 metres and is made of fine conglomerate, luckily frequent vertical cracks give good protection, and the climbing is some of the best I was fortunate enough to encounter last year. We started with The Sarclet Pimpernel, I have been meaning to climb this for years ever since seeing Cubby’s mighty fine picture of Jo George on it in the Highlands North guidebook.

Given E1,5a it has a bold start followed by fantastic romp up an arete, thankfully with a vertical crack up most of it. Down again for Groove Armada an equally good VS just to the left us thirsting for more.
The guidebook is now a little out of date and so having researched a little on UKC we found that Cubby Roo and Buoy Zone both gave a great E1ish voyage up a stunning wall, they are relatively recent routes care of Mick Tighe who always has an eye for a line.

The final route of the day was Silver Surfer a classic HVS left of the previous routes up an obvious corner.

The next day found us at Mid Clyth. A walk down to the lighthouse and along the coastal path found us at the Stack Area of crags with a generous wave cut platform. Layered sandstone bands atop a plinth of Shale gave strong lines up cracks and corners.

The gaps between the bands were more rounded here making cam protection slightly more difficult but the crack lines gave good wire protection and 6 routes from HVS to El were the prize all in glorious sunshine. The only people we saw all day were a group of sea kayakers making the most of the calm sea conditions. A slow drive back found us stopping at the old fishing port of Lybster.

Hard to believe there would have been over 100 boats in the tiny port at the height of the fishing industry in the 19^th century. Another stop in the beer garden of the Bayview Hotel made a fine finish to the day.

It was time for the long 6 hour drive home but we managed to go back to Latheronwheel first, this time at low tide to sample the 4 HVS – E1 routes on the main wall. Here we saw two other climbers, the only ones we saw throughout the entire trip. The routes were steep with boldish starts but satisfyingly sustained and a fabulous end to the trip.

Most of the crags on this section of the coastline face south east, so early mornings pay dividends to make the most of the sunshine, not my favourite time of day, but for early birds like Tony an unexpected godsend. So if you’re after single pitch sea cliff adventures with generally well protected routes in the VS to E2 range the same distance from Cumbria as Pembroke I can’t recommend it highly enough.

The Winter Meets 2023 by Ray Cassidy

Here be a “list” of the “derring dos” of the Carlisle Mountaineering (and biking) Club from the weird winter of 2023.

January – Newtonmore Independent Hostel

A good crowd turned out for the first winter jaunt of the year. Dan Bulman and John Holden got up early enough to take their bikes out on the snow, I can’t quite remember where, but entertainment was had. Charlie and Al managed to sneak up on the Thursday evening in the camper van and snuck out early to get Fingers Ridge done on the Coire an t-Sneachda cliffs. It was cruddy but entertaining apparently.

Friday

Rob Coles and Ray kicked off early on the Friday and got to the carpark… an unbelievably busy car park because of the first decent fall of winter snow, in time to head into Sneachda for a battle. Unfortunately, due to Ray’s utter lack of sense of direction they navigated into the wrong battle… missing the main path’s turn off into the corrie. After a little while of gradually getting more curious about why people were heading off on a higher path, we suddenly realised we’d cocked up. In our efforts to regain the Sneachda track we found ourselves wading through thigh deep snow over rocks and at one point, Rob with his short legs vanished. He’d been swallowed by the snowdrift and a hole between boulders. It took him a full 5 minutes to extricate himself.

The wind was still flinging spindrift across the hillside, so we tucked in behind a boulder for a wee picnic.

As we flogged our way across to the right path. We saw 3 figures steaming upwards. It was Phil, John and Stuart who had left Carlisle at least 4 hours after us! We reached the path and had a craic. However, Rob was done in – and I was just pretending not to be… so we headed down. The others carried on up and eventually Phil W and Stuart did Aladdin’s Couloir.

When everyone landed in the hostel that evening there was a good crew. The dire forecast for Saturday was checked and found to still be in force so a bilking day was decided on for most of us.

Saturday

It dawned pretty dull and claggy as forecast so most of us opted for biking. Dan, John, Rob, Young Freddy and Ray set off for a loop up Glen Feshie via some trails through Inshriach Forest. There were a few inches of soggy snow under our wheels as soon as we gained some height and that made the day a bit slip-slidey.

John’s battery pack and Dan’s legs kept everyone puffing to keep up. Ray decided he’d be a smart arse at one point and try to hammer across a stream on the return leg. Face plant in the river! Brrr. Phil, John and Stuart went for a bit of a stroll.

Sunday

Again, the bikes were chosen by some of us. This time it was a round of Glen More Forest Park, the Meall a Buchaille massif and Loch Morlich for Dan, John H, Rob, and Ray. Disaster nearly struck early on, as we hit a patch of ice and John went down with a clatter, trying to avoid Ray. There was blood… but nothing too damaged. John probably disagrees with that! He still managed to finish the ride though! Continuing the round, we eventually pulled into Ryvoan Bothy for some nosh.

Then it was the long swoop down to Loch Morlich, round it… and back to the cars.

Phil, John, Stuart and Freddy went up Ben Vrackie, to try and get something wintery done on the home leg. It was a classic “Phil’s direct” variation. It gave Freddy his first taste of something close to winter climbing.

The bunkhouse has been sold on to new owners and we don’t know whether it will be operating as a bunkhouse in future.

February – Corran Bunkhouse

This time the weather was significantly better. And the Ben was looking good. In fact, it was the only bit of Scotland looking good and it was heaving!

Saturday

It was good to see Andy Howis back out with the club. He and Graham Ansell managed to get in early on Comb Gully and had a grandstand view of a recue from 2 Gully Buttress.

Andy Howis’ picture from the day.

Phil Wilkinson, John Wilson, Stuart Adams and Ray Cassidy ambled up to Creag Coire na Ciste. Ray and Stuart had a sniff at Central Gully, but due to wooden foot syndrome, Ray opted for the easier North gully, only to find a slow party in front. Everything else by that time had also developed a queue. By the time we could get going, Phil and John also arrived so it was a marginally jolly, sociable ascent. There was a nice little ice pitch followed by steep snow pitches.

It was the first time in years that the writer has had to cut a bum bucket and bury some axes for a belay. There were some pretty threatening cornices at the top of that gully, but luckily there was an outflanking option. Once over the top, the afternoon was stunning with the added interest of the rescue mentioned earlier. Phil appeared shortly after and brought up John W whose face appeared over the edge. As Ray lined up the exit photo John gave a classic knackered but mischievous look said. “Just don’t f***in’ ask me to smile!” He did of course as he dragged his veteran body over the top.

For some strange reason we took the long way down to enjoy the scenery, via the halfway lochan. To be fair the sunset was a stunner. The plough across the bog back to the North Face track wasn’t! Less said the better John H., Chris Lovewell, Steve (briefly) and Dan were out on the bikes with a big ride round Loch Shiel and Strontian from Glen Finnan.

Sunday

Sunday was a gorgeous day, but some legs were jiggered. Andy and Graham took advantage of the sun to grab a T-shirt ascent of Agag’s Groove. There’s a red dot at the foot of Rannoch Wall… the boys?

Dan and Stuart took the bikes down into the Glen Orchy forests for another gravel grind. That triggered an urge for Ray to visit Glen Orchy for the first time in years: since the last time he’d paddled the river. A wander up towards a wee hill called Beinn Mhic Mhonaidh. It looked like an easy day for a wuss. The route passed some regenerating wild forest which looked gorgeous in the sun. After 4km through forest and plantation on some pleasant tracks, the open fell appeared… along with 3 scramble bikes and riders. A bit of craic and it turned out they had a gang of mates who had made it to the top of the hill. A wander a bit further up with lunch by a waterfall and a parade of scramble bikers descending. Then it was off again… for the legs to completely run out of steam. Round he turned… and failed in the ascent of the littlest hill of the winter. But it was a fab day to be out amongst the trees.

Meanwhile John and Chris finished off the round, back to Glenfinnan.

Phil W and John W had headed south for some sport climbing on the way home and had a great day. A really good meet.

March – Roybridge Little Houses

A diminished team from the original candidates turned up at the Little Houses again. The forecast looked promising even though the preceding week’s conditions hadn’t been ideal with a fair bit of fresh snow, frozen layers and nothing very well consolidated.

Saturday

It was a Creag Meaghaidh day for most. Graham Ansell and Alastair Bone(?) got up on to the Post Face early and managed a trip up Last Post in pretty insecure conditions. Alastair’s pic of Graham.

Phil Wilkinson, young Freddy and Ray took a more leisurely amble up to the inner corrie and went up Crescent Gully.

At grade II it was a good intro to ice climbing for Freddy: on the third pitch, as we split it.

It would be fair to say Freddy soon discovered the problems of poorly fitting crampons on ice. A learning curve was experienced.

Phil dealt very well with leading the rock-hard ice of that pitch and the weird cruddy exit onto the plateau as well.

It was a slow descent with Ray limping along to the creak of arthritis. (Sorry lads it must have been very frustrating for you).

By the time the trio were back at the car, the snow had started to fall.

Sunday

Sunday dawned… meh! Snow had turned to steady drizzle and people made their way off at different times, by the time we got into Glencoe on the way back – the rain was streaming off the hills in torrents.

Despite the ever more precarious conditions Scotland is experiencing, the winter trips were pretty successful for those who came away. Thanks for turning out and for the craic!

CMC Velo does Corran 2023 – John Holden

Gravel Rides in Scotland by Ed Shoote has a super looking route which starts and finishes at the Corran ferry, but at 59 miles it is a bit much for a one day ride at this time of the year. However, at the Northern end near Glenfinnan there is a convenient carpark just off the forest track, away from the main road and often used by walkers bagging the local peaks.

With this knowledge in hand I planned a two day ride for the weekend. Stopping at the Corran hostel on Friday night, we would drive round to Glenfinnan on the Saturday morning, ride back to Corran, then finishing the route back to Glenfinnan and the car on Sunday morning. This plan was enough to attract a number of riders and was a goer.

The weather forecast for the weekend was very good so all of us that could, set off and “got something done” on the Friday. Dan and Steve opted for The Devils Staircase, from Altnafaedh, at the top of Glen Coe, to Kinlochleven (KLL) whilst I fancied an in and out trip to Loch Eilde Mor and Beag from KLL. Dan and Steve were ahead of me and as I drove through Tyndrum I got a call asking if they could join my ride then get a lift back up to Altnafeadh to collect the van…….I of course agreed, saying I would be about ½ an hour……they were already in KLL!

Having parked up at the start of my route I managed to contact Dan, he was at the pub waiting for Steve to get back with the van, Stuart having given him a lift before I arrived. My plan had been to check the weather conditions at about the maximum height we would reach on Saturday but with the weather conditions it wasn’t really necessary….but hell, I had never been up to the lochs, it had to be worth a trip. The climb kicks in straight from the road on the lochside, 625 ft in the 1.13miles up to the abandoned Mamore Lodge, this took me just over 10 minutes…..the record is 3:15.

There followed a more gentle climb up an estate road to 1300ft over the next couple of miles before a drop of a couple of hundred feet down to the lonely and remote Lochs.

Already having wet feet from deep puddles on the track I turned back at Loch Eilde Beag when the track ahead looked to be even wetter. The return back along the lochs was easy, with a pleasant stop on a bench beside the track at its highest point, having spectacular views, all the way down Loch Leven to the open sea and beyond. The descent from the lodge took me about 4 minutes, the record is 1:40….you wouldn’t want to meet a bus on the way up at that speed!

In cycling circles there is a term “Everesting” meaning climbing 29,000ft in a day on your bike…….Saturday saw myself, Dan, Steve (to start with) and Chris doing day one of my plan. We didn’t Everest, but (according to Chris’s Garmin) we did “Munro”.

Parking beside the Callup River, near Glenfinnan, we set off along the gravel road towards Loch Shiel in cold but very still conditions to be blessed with the stunning view over the loch towards Glenfinnan viaduct, the reflections were spectacular. There followed about 12 miles of superb gravel road down the side of Loch Shiel to the hamlet of Polloch, with stunning scenery and reflections all the way, most enjoyable even though we were in the shade and the temperature never rose above -2C. Steve had left us after a few miles to head back over to Nevis Range and the MTB trails. Turning back “inland” we passed by the side of Loch Doillean being lulled into a false sense of security before the big climb through the forest kicked in. With bits as steep as 25% even I, on an ebike, had to stop a few times to recover but still got to the top before Dan and Chris, much respect to both of them for making it up that hill. 925ft in 2.7 miles! There follows a great 3 mile descent into Strontian on a super, sweeping, well surfaced road, as a “bloke” it is necessary to keep your eyes on the road (speed) which means you don’t get to look at the mines where the element Strontium was discovered and first mined.

Having refreshed ourselves at the local café we finished the decent into the village, before turning onto the A861, over Glen Tarbert and along the side of Loch Linnhe, with a troublesome head wind, back to the ferry and Corran, the views over to the “mainland” and Loch Leven were superb.

Sunday morning found myself and Chris going back over the ferry to finish the last 24 miles of the route back to Glenfinnan.Riding, in the sunshine, along the A861 beside Loch Linnhe the views over to Lochaber and The Ben got better and better as we approached Camusnagaul, opposite fort Bill, where we sat for a while to enjoy the spectacular view of The Ben.

Following the A861 we turned westward along Loch Eil, returning to our start and the car after a short section of the relatively busy A830, Road to The Isles.

Well, talk about lucky with the weather, three days of superb conditions, those who went into the hills enjoyed spectacular views, even though the wished for winter conditions didn’t start till a long way up the hill and for we cyclists it could hardly have been better.

Here’s to the next time.